J-Tech DigitalPremium Quality 1080P HDMI to HDMI + Audio (SPDIF + RCA Stereo) Audio Extractor Converter (JTDAT5CH)

I use this with my PS5 to send video to a projector and audio to a soundbar. The video and audio quality are excellent.

Allowed me to keep using using my old but otherwise very sufficient Home Theater system after its HDMI capabilities became obsolete. I send my Roku output straight to my TV now, but this device routes the digital audio to the receiver for 5.1 surround and superior audio quality.

This review receives 5 Stars because I was able to utilize the RCA stereo output to supply my Sennheiser audio headset with a usable signal and that is why I bought the "box". I received the J-Tech Digital Premium Quality HDMI 2.1CH/5.1CH Audio Extractor, Model JTDAT5CH/JTD-ID:80 in a soft side mailing envelope along with two HDMI cables I ordered to connect the "box" with. Connecting was simple with the Roku Ultra HDMI output, connecting the Roku out to the "box" in, "box" out to my Onkyo AV receiver, Streaming Box HDMI #3 connection in. The "box" RCA connections were made from the "box" to the AV Analog In #4 RCA in connections. I plugged in the "box" power supply into an electrical outlet, then plugged in the power supply connection into the "box" power supply. The red light on the "box" turned on. I then selected ROKU on the AV receiver, which already was set up to "turn on" the system (TV, AV Rec, Roku) to view audio/video from the Roku through the AV receiver and on to the TV. I confirmed that audio was normal through the AV receiver out to the speakers as usual. The video came on at the TV as usual. I turned on the Sennheiser headset, put it on and did not hear any audio. I selected on the AV receiver the Satellite reception and sound came through the AV receiver system and also into my headset - normal. I reselected Roku and within a couple of seconds, audio and video from the Roku came on through the AV receiver but not through the headset. I tell you all this just to remind you to make sure you understand how a AV receiver works. I should have thought about this prior to connecting the "box". My Onkyo has Zone 2 and that is what outputs audio to my headset. I had failed to understand and set up Zone 2 for my Roku. I went into the Setup of the Onkyo, went into Input/Output menu and selected Analog output to the proper output to match the HDMI input - Streaming Box #3 HDMI with Analog #4 output. I then selected Zone 2 to Streaming Box and sound turned on in my headset. So, the box worked. Then, I checked the position of the switch, Bypass, 2CH Stereo, 5.1CH and it was selected to 5.1CH. I thought that can't be, RCA outputting 5.1?? I selected 2CH stereo and both the audio and video turned off. After a couple of seconds, both the audio and video came back on. Video looked good but audio seemed the same as before but what could I tell - I was listening to 2 channel stereo - I think. I selected Bypass on the switch and the audio/video turned off and after a couple of seconds came back on. Video seemed the same, audio also. No matter where I put the switch it seemed that nothing changed on audio or video. I left the switch in Bypass, headset playing audio and the AV receiver providing sound and the TV playing video. Well, okay I get what I want - audio through the headset and Roku seems to be good. And, I learned some more about my Onkyo AV receiver. The "box" and cables were delivered within the two days provided by Prime, in a large padded envelope, in a new package and I used the two new 18" HDMI cables to plug in the "box". I recommend buying the "box" because it gives me headset audio and still allows audio to be passed on to the AV receiver as though nothing changed. One thing I have not done is to check the audio programming when streaming a movie from either Netflix or Amazon through the "box" to check the AV receiver decoding Dolby. If that works I will not be updating this review. If it doesn't work - I will update the review to provide those comments. Good Luck - the box seems to be "plug -n-play".

Update:I’ve been experimenting, and came back to say…1) I don't hear a strong difference, but I recommend setting the Roku Ultra to stereo and the J-Tech [JT] to passthrough/TV (photo taken with Roku in passthrough and JT in 2CH).2) WiiM Pro currently can’t read DTS etc, so leaving both preceding components in passthrough got me no sound (but oddly displayed 24/192 on my DAC… weird)3) I’d like to clarify the JT doesn’t change the Roku menu by default - It depends what order you adjust the EDID.All in all, decent product, but not sure it isn’t overkill in my scenario. Good build, no harm to video or audio, easy to use, and kind customer service that patiently answered my questions. 7/24/24Original Review:Well, I’m glad I at least got the TV out of the audio path, but let’s rewind…I had made such strides with my system’s music handling, I wanted to bring the TV experience up to speed. That’s not to say the sound quality bad or that I was having connectivity issues, but I was aware (or at least under the impression) that the TV was resampling the audio output. I was also tired of 5.1 streams (which, up until fairly recently was standard) burying dialogue in my 2.1 system. For example, being able to hear a difference between surround and stereo settings on Netflix, I assumed the mix-down was likely happening in the TV and was as mediocre as its analog conversion. That said, I was unaware of (and would eventually learn) four important things:1) The Roku Ultra’s audio can be set to “Uncompressed Stereo” (I am still kicking myself for not checking the source first).2) Setting the Roku to Stereo changes your menu options *in the streaming services*, and the presence of the Extractor changes the Roku menu i.e I cannot be certain the mix-down sounds any better outside the TV’s path3) You are not going to find audio above 24/48 being streamed by major services like Netflix, Max, Hulu etc. If you want 24/192, you’re going to need BlueRay discs or RIP’s.4) I believe the Roku is doing its own resampling to match the common 24/48 stream - Higher bitrates on a Plex server will not come through.So, I’m not sure I did much 😅 It seems almost everything I suspected of the TV was happening in the Roku (or is beyond my control to begin with). That said, I can tell you the device feels solid, it was easy to set up, and has not diminished the audible experience. I’ve had success upgrading power supplies (and the one provided seems a little “dinky”) but I see no point in experimenting with that given the circumstances. The manual seemed to be for an older model, and was the bare minimum of info, but I was able to find a slightly better version online.To give the full picture, the path is Roku Ultra > HDMI to Extractor > optical to a WiiM Pro > optical to DAC (Denafrips) > Preamp. The next move will likely/eventually be switching the source to a NVIDIA Shield TV Pro and see if that opens up the experience at all. I admittedly have only used the 2.0 setting up to this point, and need to try different “orientations” with the Roku. I’ll come back if I learn anything more ✌️